Wiring is the method used to bend and shape your Bonsai. Wrapping wire around the branches allows you to manipulate their position. It will take from a few weeks to a few months for the new positions to be set, after which time you can carefully remove the wire. Wiring is a skill. It takes patience and practice but the results are worth it. It is a key component to becoming a master in the art of bonsai.
Types of Bonsai Wire
There are two types of wire which are predominantly used to wire bonsai. These are anodized aluminum and annealed copper. Let’s take a look at the difference in these two wires so we can best understand which one to use in wiring our bonsai.
Anodized Aluminum
This type of wire is softer and more forgiving to mistakes. It can easily be removed and changed as you work with it. For this reason, it is a good choice for beginners. Anodized aluminum wire is used mainly on deciduous trees. It is always recommended to use it on bonsai trees with thin bark, like the maple or the elm. The softness of the wire will minimize damage to the bark. Due to it’s softness, aluminum wire will need to be slightly thicker than the annealed copper wire. Since it is softer, there is slight risk that the tree branch may overpower it, and return to the natural shape.
Annealed Copper
This is a stronger wire which will hold its position extremely well. It’s best used on conifers and pines. Due to its strength, you will most likely need less of it than if you were to use its aluminum counterpart, making it aesthetically better. Make sure to not get just any copper wire. It must be annealed copper, which means it has been through a heat process which allows it to become softer. Otherwise, it will be too brittle to make tight curves without breaking.
When Should You Wire Your Bonsai?
Wiring can be done year round, but it’s best to do it in late winter for deciduous trees. This is when they shed all there leaves, allowing better access to the branches. Other bonsai artists prefer growing season because you will see results faster. Also, healing is faster during the growth season.
Deciduous trees will grow rapidly from spring through to autumn. If your tree is wired throughout this time you must watch it carefully. During the growth phase branches swell to allow increased sap flow, this swelling can result in wire biting.
Tools for Wiring Bonsai Trees
Make sure you have the below list of materials at a minimum. These are necessary. We do not recommend starting to wire without having them handy.
- Wire Cutters
- Pliers
- Wire
- Raffia
You can piece all of this together quite easily. If you’re looking for a good quality wiring kit. Here is a great bonsai wiring kit that you’ll love.
Raffia can usually be picked up at garden centers, and sometimes craft stores. We have used TinyRoots Raffia, and love it.
We also recommend Kilowa branch paste, encase you accidentally split or break any branches. Hopefully you won’t need it, but it’s great to keep on hand.
How To Wire Your Bonsai Tree
Here is our step-by-step guide to wire and re-wire your bonsai tree. Just follow the steps. Let us know if you have any additional questions or run into anything not covered in this guide. We are always updating information.
Step 1: Select Wire
Make sure you have the correct type of wire for your bonsai species and the correct size of wire for the branches that you intend to work with, unfortunately, it is not a one size fits all. Thicker branches require thicker wire and vice versa. You should purchase a variety of sizes. As a starting point, I would recommend you have a 1mm, 1.5mm, 3mm, 4mm and a 5mm thick wire in your kit.
Step 2: Decide which branches to wire
Select the branches which you are going to reposition. Remember that this is all about the end result and how you want your bonsai to look in the future. Bonsai enthusiasts often try to emulate the way the tree would look in full stature. Ultimately it is your canvas and so you should go ahead and express yourself.
Step 3: Set up Raffia
When preparing to make a large bend use raffia before you wire. Soak the raffia with a little water then tie the ends before wrapping around the branch. Tie the other end, then you can go ahead and begin wiring. The raffia will help protect the branch from cracking and it will also help avoid the bark separating from the wood.
Step 4: Apply Wires
If you are going to wire the whole tree, start at the bottom and place the wire into the soil at a 45-degree angle and wind it up around the trunk. Start with the trunk, then the primary branches, leaving smaller branches until last. Remember to change the wire when needed. Branches will often be thicker when they are closer to the trunk, thinning as they go out. You will need to change to a thinner wire as the branch thins.
If you want to reposition a single branch, a branch on the opposite side should still be wired to give support, additionally always wind the wire at least twice around the trunk to maximize support. Make sure you wire with one hand and support the branch with your other hand.
If you are going to bend the branch upwards, you want the wire to come from above. If you are going to bend it downwards start the wire from below.
When you have finished you can go ahead and care for your bonsai without restrictions.
Top Tips:
- Make sure there are no gaps between the wire and the branch. Whilst you don’t want to wrap the wire so tightly that it will cause damage, leaving gaps will be counterproductive.
- If you accidentally cause a crack, cover it immediately with a bonsai wound sealant.
- Try to wrap the wire evenly.
- Avoid wiring fragile branches.
When Should You Remove the Wires?
How long the bends take to hold can vary. Different species have different requirements Pines and junipers are known to need a longer time than other species, sometimes over a year.
More mature bonsais will also take longer to hold their bend and may need to be wired for a lengthy period.
Keep a close eye on your bonsai following wiring because there is not a hard and fast answer to this question. What you want to avoid is wire bite. This happens when the branches swell, during the growth phase. This causes the wire to dig into the branch which will result in scarring. In certain trees you should avoid this at all cost. Species such as the olive and the Japanese maple can take years to heal from such scars. For other species small scars will heal over relatively quickly.
When removing the wire, unwind until a point where it is safe to cut and then cut. It is not advised to try and save the wire for re use. It is always recommended to wire with new wire.
